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First Grow - Afghani & White Widow LED Tent

MooseBluemane

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#61
I do not work for nor have interest in this company, but this is what i am buying to make my Rosin for Oil and Edible making.

https://slug33.com/

Check it out, watch the guys videos. They make like a 1 gram, 2.2 gram, and a 3.3 gram forge, again watch the video on their site.

At under 100 bucks, well more because you need a Vice and a Torch but if you have them already, then under 100 bucks.

I will be ordering one, once all my harvest is done, and cured.
 

Alphatoy

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Thread starter #62
just kidding about equipment Harvest around Christmas, no I looked on utube and found out about Dab Rings my part wont work for dabbing haven't really found out how we will burn it yet we just jumped into Rosin with closed eyes. tried lowering light down on the fruit bowl than had to raise it back up again on one pedal of leaf was getting light burn it is hard to tell in picture but she is starting to fill out
 

Alphatoy

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Thread starter #65
all I would do is probably burn the snot out of my self but that is why I bought the heat press right to heat and press rosin. I found on WISH a dab ring that will fit my wife's bong it is about $15.00 plus $7.00 Shipping that seems Fairley cheap made of stainless steel believe I will go that route after Christmas, sent the expensive press back to Amazon Yesterday squeezed one bud on parchment pater got a bit of rosin goo so I guess now I am a professional rosin presser haha o yes I did buy me a new toy a Digital Microscope , it is pretty super now i9 can scan the Trichomes Unfortunately for us impatient growers, harvesting at the right time is just as important as how you grow the plant. Harvest too soon and you lose potency and cannabis yields; too late and you can end up making a batch of sleep medicine. A Digital Microscope is one of the best tools to determine the right harvest time. A digital microscope costs a bit more than a loupe and many models need a connecting laptop, but they will get you face-to-face with your trichomes and allow you to take video to re-examine afterward or get a second opinion. You’ll be almost uncomfortably close to your trichomes! I am waiting for my extension cord for it to get me a 12 foot lead right now only 1,5m about 6 ft that why I had to send the other press back spending to much on toys haha my room is starting to look like a LAB. haha next is the sifting screens but since I started growing for my wife an boy we save over $400 per month if I quit buying toys haha well enough of this Book haha Later
 
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Alphatoy

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Thread starter #66
OOPS A NEW BOOK,
A few days ago, I asked a friend why did he remove leaves on his indoor medical cannabis plants. The tops of the plants were becoming crowded with big healthy leaves; and he was concerned about light penetrating to the lower branches. I was surprised by how many wrong and contradictory answers he had received from other fairly experienced growers. Hopefully I can clarify a few points and help dispel some of the misinformation floating about.
Try to think of leaves like solar panels. They are the plant’s only source of energy. The healthier the leaves, the more energy the plant has to grow and produce huge, resinous buds.
As the leaves on the plant begin to age, they eventually reach a point where photosynthesis peaks and begins to slow. At this point, the leaves are less efficient, and glucose productions declines. New leaves grow in to replace them as the primary solar panels, allowing more efficient photosynthesis to continue. The older, less efficient, leaves begin to work much like the root system, distributing their stored nutrients and plant sugars to wherever it is needed. When they have no more nutrients left to redistribute, these leaves will begin to yellow, and eventually fall from the plant.
This is particularly important to remember if you are experiencing root problems. Older leaves may be sacrificed to allow light to shine on fresh growth–but only if you have a healthy, robust root system. If your roots are not well established or are damaged, you may do more harm than good by removing the older leaves.
I should point out that most of the older leaves will be lower on the plant and therefor unlikely to shade much of the fresh growth. Any fresh growth lower on the plant is probably on shoots and in the shade of fresh foliage that is closer to the light. The principal of light and the inverse square law tell us that artificial light intensity quickly diminishes the further you get from the light source. So, you certainly do not want to sacrifice fresh leaves closer to the light for fresh leaves further away.
You can tell that leaves are beginning to give up their nutrients when they start to lose their dark green color. If these fading older leaves are blocking the light from new growth, feel free to remove them. By the time the leaves become pale green, or begin to yellow, they should be removed–even if they are not blocking younger foliage. Be sure not to remove leaves that have not yet reached their full size, unless they have been damaged by pests. Healthy leaves exposed to the light are facilitating photosynthesis. So your plants require them.
Outside, the Sun’s position in the sky changes through the day, providing light from a wide range of angles. Plants will follow the Sun and lower their leaves in the morning and evening to expose as much surface area as possible to the light. In grow rooms with stationary grow lights, the plants will only receive light from one static angle. This means that lower leaves are often shaded completely once new leaves grow in.
With stationary lighting, the only wavelengths that can penetrate dense leaves is from the far red end of the spectrum. This far red light does not assist photosynthesis, but triggers internal plant hormones called gibberellins. These gibberellins then cause the plants to stretch and create longer internodal spacing. The lower, shaded shoots usually do not amount to much, but may draw a tremendous amount of the plant’s energy stretching towards the light. For indoor gardens, use selective pruning to maximize yield and redirect plant energy to more productive zones.
Removing leaves is not the only method of decreasing shading and increasing light penetration. Using light movers, you can supply light at a variety of angles. This can reduce stretch, and light otherwise shaded leaves. Oscillating fans can be aimed to flutter leaves, allowing light to penetrate deeper into the canopy. Reflective material on the walls will also help to redirect wasted light at angles advantageous to lower leaves. For smaller grow rooms, plants can be set at different levels like stadium seating. In theory, this works great; but it is difficult to implement in larger grow rooms, and virtually impossible with many hydroponic systems.
The best answer for improving light penetration is simply to grow shorter marijuana plants. With taller plants, the majority of the bottom branches end up in shade. Even if light did penetrate the upper leaves, the lumens reaching the lower branches are so diminished that they yield poorly anyway.
What have you learned?
Do not remove leaves indiscriminately.
Do not remove young leaves unless heavily damaged by bugs or molds.
Do not sacrifice healthy leaves near the light for the sake of lower leaves.
Remove leaves that are beginning to yellow.
Do not remove mature leaves if you have a weak root system.
Use light movers, oscillating fans, and reflective material to improve light penetration
Grow your plants short to keep all the branches as close to the lights source as possible
Use selective pruning to remove sucker shoots that use up valuable plant energy This is what I learned growing Flowers over many years and most all plants and Canopy's even the Great AMAZON FOREST grows with a heavy canopy there is still plenty of growth on the ground because there is no one picking their leaves o well enough of this book. Later
 
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Alphatoy

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Thread starter #67
moose looked at your videos it doesn't look very cheap to me $439.00 for the kit and it is very slow lots of work. but it does do the job but I believe you can do cheaper. good luck .
 
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Alphatoy

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Thread starter #68
Got Battery charged finally I found out it charges better if plugged in. here are a few pictures from my Clone Widows in the back and my Front 2 Widows and their young flowers .
 

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Alphatoy

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Thread starter #71
they are Doing great Sunshine #8 pic is the little bottle Babies , #10 is the young girls fruit bowl front left ak47 back left nordie back right and front right is that last afghan seed will have to keep a clone of her to keep afghan going #9 pic is my clone from the top of my clone they are growing fast looks like I might have to top fruity next week she also has a great branch coming out on bottom for a good clone on pic #12 also the gang . I guess its Good to have a little Botanist in me seems to work for the Plants.
 
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