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Switched over to LED?

Sam

Member
40
18
Well after 4 years of successful growing with 400 watt MH, and HPS, I switched over to LED and this happened? Can anyone help with this problem? If not, I’ll go back to my old setup? LED’s are 18” from larger plants, and 36” from the seedlings! Leaves are yellow, seedlings have burned tips?
 

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Sunshine

Organic Fanatic
3,793
113
The problems you're experiencing are unrelated to the kind of light you're using.

It looks like a pH and root issue, use larger pots for the more mature plants next time, also be careful not to over water as your temperatures are likely lower.

Good luck with your grow and keep us posted.
 

Ras Mountain

Member
30
18
It's appearance resembles the same disease I'm currently battling in my germination trays - damping off.

It's a root condition caused by fungal spores that take hold of anearobic soil, or soil that just doesn't evaporate quickly and goes stagnant. Unfortunately, this disease is contagious and can wipe out entire flats of seedlings.

In the sunlight, UV light helps to sanitize undesirable pathogens and I'm sure HPS lighting gives out enough heat to reduce the chances of infection. I only started having this problem recently under poorly ventilated LED tech, at first thinking it was just nutrient burn.

What I'm trying this time, after dumping about 50 seeds or so due to failure, is bleach treatment of all tools, pots and trays, followed by heat treatment of the coco / soil media to try and renew it.

You may try to nurse those young plants back if the conditions can be found, but it's likely they will take a considerable amount of energy to save.
 

matthiesen74

Member
27
13
I have had great growing under an LED. Good short plants that have so far given me a gram a watt after trimming. I am using an Electric Sky 300 and couldn't be happier. No comparison to the 400 my/HPS. No yoyos needed except one here or there. Less than half the height, and the buds were tighter with most being A group buds since they stayed so short. I also DWC. I did a dirt vs DWC and will never go dirt inside ever again.
 

Alphatoy

Humble Helper
960
93
🤠
Well after 4 years of successful growing with 400 watt MH, and HPS, I switched over to LED and this happened? Can anyone help with this problem? If not, I’ll go back to my old setup? LED’s are 18” from larger plants, and 36” from the seedlings! Leaves are yellow, seedlings have burned tips?
🤠 I keep my large plants 12" from light and my seedlings about 6" from led and have never had no burn issue :mask:
 

Sam

Member
40
18
I have had great growing under an LED. Good short plants that have so far given me a gram a watt after trimming. I am using an Electric Sky 300 and couldn't be happier. No comparison to the 400 my/HPS. No yoyos needed except one here or there. Less than half the height, and the buds were tighter with most being A group buds since they stayed so short. I also DWC. I did a dirt vs DWC and will never go dirt inside ever again.
I was thinking about buying an Electric Sky 300, but they’re kind of pricey so I’m going to wait for my stimulus check to arrive first! So you’d recommend it? I have a 4X4 tent! Sam
 

Ras Mountain

Member
30
18
What about Spider Farmer SF4000? How do they compare vs. Electric Sky vs. conventional 600w HPS?

I thought about getting a SF4000 for a minute to see if it made a difference, but then found this Phantom II 1000W digital ballast on sale for $150 and pulled the trigger. No noise. No moving parts. I expect it's going to perform for years!

Sadly, they jacked up the price again. Wouldn't pay 200+ for a ballast - no way.
 

chemdude

New Member
26
3
It's appearance resembles the same disease I'm currently battling in my germination trays - damping off.

It's a root condition caused by fungal spores that take hold of anearobic soil, or soil that just doesn't evaporate quickly and goes stagnant. Unfortunately, this disease is contagious and can wipe out entire flats of seedlings.

In the sunlight, UV light helps to sanitize undesirable pathogens and I'm sure HPS lighting gives out enough heat to reduce the chances of infection. I only started having this problem recently under poorly ventilated LED tech, at first thinking it was just nutrient burn.

What I'm trying this time, after dumping about 50 seeds or so due to failure, is bleach treatment of all tools, pots and trays, followed by heat treatment of the coco / soil media to try and renew it.

You may try to nurse those young plants back if the conditions can be found, but it's likely they will take a considerable amount of energy to save.
I have been using fluence leds for a few years and love them (save energy, lower ac costs, better yields and potency). They are a bit expensive, but you make it up with lower operating costs (the lights last ten years). More recently I had some similar models (equivalent to fluences top of the line model) shipped to me from china. It was a bit of a hassle getting them (customs took a few extra weeks), but they cost less than half what fluence charges, and they come with dimming and a slightly higher efficacy (2.8 uM/joule). They put out 1800 uM/s running at 645w. In regards to the yellowing, I would tend to agree it is likely a result of over watering. This is can happen fairly easily in soil and even in coco (especially before your plants are well established). Ounce this happens it takes a long time for plants to recover. The yellow leave are toast. You plants will have to grow new leaves (and roots).
 

chemdude

New Member
26
3
I have been using fluence leds for a few years and love them (save energy, lower ac costs, better yields and potency). They are a bit expensive, but you make it up with lower operating costs (the lights last ten years). More recently I had some similar models (equivalent to fluences top of the line model) shipped to me from china. It was a bit of a hassle getting them (customs took a few extra weeks), but they cost less than half what fluence charges, and they come with dimming and a slightly higher efficacy (2.8 uM/joule). They put out 1800 uM/s running at 645w. In regards to the yellowing, I would tend to agree it is likely a result of over watering. This is can happen fairly easily in soil and even in coco (especially before your plants are well established). Ounce this happens it takes a long time for plants to recover. The yellow leave are toast. You plants will have to grow new leaves (and roots).
FYI. You can easily get more than 2g/watt using the leds i mentioned
 

matthiesen74

Member
27
13
I was thinking about buying an Electric Sky 300, but they’re kind of pricey so I’m going to wait for my stimulus check to arrive first! So you’d recommend it? I have a 4X4 tent! Sam
My father thought the same thing as far as price, so I told him I would cover the cost until he had his first grow and was actually ahead as compared to hps/mh. He paid me back and bought two more...very out of character, but he was impressed that much. You will kick yourself if you ween up to a light like that. I do believe that the secret spectrum is probably being duplicated, but the lenses and 3 year amarican made and only about half the price if they get a new Wild advancement on the lights. They sell upgrade kits. But in a 4x4 tent, I have grown myself out of the tent,(as I open it during the 12 on). That was with just 4 buckets. Every grow stayes on the short side, which is real nice since it's the first two feet that get the good amount. Could be my strain, but I always get a gram a watt. That's true, wall usage watt. Heat is very easy to control with just a couple ocilating and the vents. Usually rarely need yoyos since the stalks are fat and short. I do top it once also to help with height . For me, I get 300 grams no matter if I use 2 or more buckets. I haven't tried seeing if I can get 300 from one plant, but I am attempting that right now. I think one Electric Sky 300 in a 4x4 tent, if you are inexperienced, and two lights will fit, but it gets so thick with just 4 buckets. Wall to wall packed.
 

matthiesen74

Member
27
13
That's funny. I was going that or the electric sky also... It was all the research and development from the kid from UCLA, and costumer support that swayed me. Hps vs es300 led is a grow I just harvested.. led won in many ways. The peace prize for LED tech (it was a blue led) was just handed out in 2014. Since then, they are going leeps and bounds.
What about Spider Farmer SF4000? How do they compare vs. Electric Sky vs. conventional 600w HPS?

I thought about getting a SF4000 for a minute to see if it made a difference, but then found this Phantom II 1000W digital ballast on sale for $150 and pulled the trigger. No noise. No moving parts. I expect it's going to perform for years!

Sadly, they jacked up the price again. Wouldn't pay 200+ for a ballast - no way.
 
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matthiesen74

Member
27
13
🤠I myself wouldn't spend no 600 for a light my light was under 100 and grows buds fine for the past 2 years it also an led light :mask:
Curious what you got? I had a shoe in a few years ago. My buddy was writing a column for high times about which grew best, and they accepted the first 20 companies gave to try, and electric sky was in there. Was their first year. Spider had already been out a while, but was very expensive and was only using what they could, not asking and buying specific spectrums. So I feel I bit of greed with them. Though I have not tested their product.
 

chemdude

New Member
26
3
I am spoiled. I dont need to use a tent. I have twelve foot ceilings. If I were to use a tent I would use one flexstar 645w led for a 4x4 tent.. You should be able to net 800-900 g at a shot. You probably want to grow 4 plants ( i always scrog to get an even canopy). The light will set you back a bit over 600 with shipping (well worth it with the increased yield). These lights are commercial grade. I know my gear. I used to run a commercial grow
 

Sativa Kid

Active Member
101
43
The problems you're experiencing are unrelated to the kind of light you're using.

It looks like a pH and root issue, use larger pots for the more mature plants next time, also be careful not to over water as your temperatures are likely lower.

Good luck with your grow and keep us posted.
I was thinking lockout due to acidic Ph. When peat moss breaks down it creates acid. I used to lockout in mid to late flower all the time until I started using dolomite lime in extremely small quantities. I add 2 teaspoons to my 25 gallon dechlorination barrell. I never seen lockout again. BTW this is frowned upon and everybody warns against using dolomite lime because people have burned their plants. The sheep follow the sheep!
 
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Highcountry

Member
24
13
I like the spider farmer, but it is very bright. You have to be careful not to light burn the plants. It grows killer weed, and fills up the grow tent with buds.

I have noticed that plants grown indoors under led lights have cal-mag deficiencies at times. The clones in the greenhouse did not have these problems. The greenhouse is the money maker if you can get away with it. It is much easier to grow and the plants become monsters in it. I had to shut it down as it was starting to scent up the neighborhood. 😢 The old lady next door was asking about the smell.
 

chemdude

New Member
26
3
You should
I like the spider farmer, but it is very bright. You have to be careful not to light burn the plants. It grows killer weed, and fills up the grow tent with buds.

I have noticed that plants grown indoors under led lights have cal-mag deficiencies at times. The clones in the greenhouse did not have these problems. The greenhouse is the money maker if you can get away with it. It is much easier to grow and the plants become monsters in it. I had to shut it down as it was starting to scent up the neighborhood. 😢 The old lady next door was asking about the smell.
You should give the old lady some brownies, maybe she would chill. I would love to use a greenhouse, but it is not an option in the desert southwest
 


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