Question Which setup do you prefer?

[Fckit712]

Were there is a will there is a way. Im sure you will be fine in that space. Ive seen people grow inside a tower computer modem, and they've pulled it off. With your cab you should have plenty of space for a small personal grow. Just dont go overboard with the lighting as some of these led lights (decent ones) can be very strong. I think a nice mars 1000 or something of similar power and specs should be fine. They are reasonably priced nowdays too. Get your self a couple of small clip on fans and a small extractor fan an you should be good to go in some pots. You should be able to get the bits such as a small extractor fan, and clip fans at a resonable price too. Good luck. Will be nice to see you getting it all up and running and on your way to growing.

Thank you again, and very much appreciate the kind words. I'm gonna get there. And you guys have been extremely helpful.
Cheers

 

[Fckit712]

Ok.......had to switch up the formula. Funds are low, and wood is a little too much at the moment. I was gifted the dresser shown below, a Bloom Plus 1000w (90w +/- 5%), and a 4 inch (230cfm) intake/exhaust carbon filter system that comes with the speed controller, and temp and humidity reader.
Only bad thing about the wardrobe is with the divider the section is only 16"x20"×60", with out the shelf. I was going to raise the right shelf to be flush with the one on the left, and remove the rest of the center divider and shelves, and refortify the base structure as needed. Also, will remove the shitty back panel of hardboard, and replace with 1/4" ply.
Now is where I need some help. If anyone can visualize what I just said, and give me some pointers on the Ventilation setup. Should the fan and carbon filter be on that top shelf, and vented out of the grow area by making a 4" hole, and securing the ducting into the top of the grow area about 2" in the grow area? And also it will have a 6" hole cut into the side, with a vent cover for fresh air to be drawn in. I also thought about setting the fan and filter up on the floor, on the far right side, but I think temps might be a little high to be able to run that type of setup
I wanted to leave the divider on the top row, and have the right section for seedlings, with a smaller wattage light for their needs. But I have a feeling the space is going to be too small for that, and will have to remove the middle divider on that shelf and run the system on that.
My heads spinning.
Thoughts, critiques, advice, ideas,........
"All are welcome"

 

[Apocalypse]

I got a way that will work. It should givs you a little seedling and clone space and your flowering space. With what im thinking we should be able to get good ventilation in your flowering room and some in your seedling/clone space. I will message back with more details. Would it be possible to veta picture of the carbon filter system you have please

 

[Fckit712]

I got a way that will work. It should givs you a little seedling and clone space and your flowering space. With what im thinking we should be able to get good ventilation in your flowering room and some in your seedling/clone space. I will message back with more details. Would it be possible to veta picture of the carbon filter system you have please

Hell yeah. I greatly appreciate it. The vent system should be here Monday, and is shown below. I put 1/4" ply on the back, and a support bar across the center of the back. I'm gonna remove the middle section, and leave the top shelf, unless your idea requires it to stay. I have a 6" vent cover coming for the hole for the fresh air, and 2 clip fans coming this way on Monday. Still need to figure out drainage, but getting there.
Cheers

 

[Monst3rBean]

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but combining super soil with a gravity drip my fit your interest for something automated

 

[Ras Mountain]

Drainage... Water in the bath tub?

If serious, Hydrofarm makes excellent saucers. Maybe could use the lid from an old tote or pot within a pot for starting out.

 

[Apocalypse]

I would remove all the shelves apart from were the bottom shelf is. Take the central devider out. Were the bottom shelf is just have one there but going straight across. This should give you a decent sized flowering space the top section and a small seedling clone section at the bottom. Put in a kind of kick board about 2-3inch high right at the bottom which will stop dust and any thing else blowing straight in of the floor or kicking up when some is walking near it whenthe door is open. With your venting you should have enough space to hang your light and hang your filter and fan near the top. You have a hole on the back board near the top so around that area would be were your fan would blow out. You should have enough space to position your light near the top centre hanging down a little bit with your filter hanging along side it, should cool your light a bit too. Then your bottom shelf you will have to cut a couple slots in but be mind full as your plants will sit on the upper side of that bottom shelf (work out if you want your plants and pots sitting in a tray or individual saucers)and also dont dont do one right above the intake baffle . I would make a couple of slots near the edges. Then place your intake baffle on the back panel right towards the bottom. What this should do is as air is being sucked out via the fan near the top of the top chamber it will force air to come through your intake baffle near the bottom, go through the bottom chamber and up through the shelf into the top chamber. You might have to build some small light traps for the slots of the bottom shelf that you stick to the top of the bottom shelf. This should then stop any light leaking from one chamber to the next when one mightbe on its dark cycle. One more thing that will make all the air system more effective and work better as when shut I don't know if when the door is shut it will make each chamber air tight. So if you replace the back panel with a solid back, you can use the thiner removed one in to individual chamber doors that with some draft excluders positioned right on the inside edging and on the inside of these doors edging and some strategicly placed magnetic latches can make it farely air tight. With the normal wardrobe doors shutting over them too there should be enough pressure then to make it all quite tight. If you need to keep the floppy pannel one of my friends used to use a good method. He would have thin lengths running along the edge of his camber all the way around, top sides and bottom. They would sit about 2cm back from the very edge. Then he built a frame and just stuck thick plastik to the front of it and stapled on the back side. This frame he then just put a couple of screws in the top, two in the bottom strip and one on each side. He then screwed this as a front panel tho the chamber with the screws going into the lengths/battons he had already attached to the chamber that ran around the inside edge sitting back those 2cm. With the plastic on the front of the fram and stappled over the edges tho the inside of the frame, when scewing it down abit the plastic acted like a draught excluder seal and made it more air tight. Also making sure once screwed down the frame sat a mil or two inside the chamber so the wardrobe main door could shut. So you would one ov these panels on the top chamber and one on the bottom. Obviously be aware though with this method your going to have to undo 4-6 screws to get to a chamber and your plants. But it will make it secure and effect. Or another way is putting ruber strips on the inside of the normal wardrobe doors that wen the the doors are shut make the chambers air tight best as you can. You see the more airtigh you can make each individual chamber the more better the air will be forced through the bottom chamber and out through the top chamber. With the bottom chamber you could probably light that with a single t5 led tube or a couple of cfl bulbs. Hope that helps.

 

[Ras Mountain]

I've used panda film for making exhaust holes light proof, and blacking out windows. Probably could be used for drainage collection tarp as well. It's good stuff, that panda.

 

[Fckit712]

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet but combining super soil with a gravity drip my fit your interest for something automated

I agree, but funds are low and a super soil is a little pricey. I definitely want to go that route, but may be a few months.
Cheers

 

[Fckit712]

I've used panda film for making exhaust holes light proof, and blacking out windows. Probably could be used for drainage collection tarp as well. It's good stuff, that panda.

Yeah I'm thinking holes in the bottom, and tarp to catch it for now. I found some Velcro strips for pretty cheap to run the door frames with, to cut the light out. The back panel has no light coming through except a little precut hole, which I'll get covered. Just want to see what Apocalypses thoughts are on the set-up, and if I can keep one side for little guys. Also, found a garage sale this weekend, and the guys has a Linkind 150w (puts out 150w) for a 3x3 for $20 in great shape. Might use that for the main section, and my 90w for the seedling/veg side. Still pondering everything at this stage, but come Monday I should have almost everything to set-up and test the temp and humidity for a few days before I get something in there.

 

[Fckit712]

Yeah I'm thinking holes in the bottom, and tarp to catch it for now. I found some Velcro strips for pretty cheap to run the door frames with, to cut the light out. The back panel has no light coming through except a little precut hole, which I'll get covered. Just want to see what Apocalypses thoughts are on the set-up, and if I can keep one side for little guys. Also, found a garage sale this weekend, and the guys has a Linkind 150w (puts out 150w) for a 3x3 for $20 in great shape. Might use that for the main section, and my 90w for the seedling/veg side. Still pondering everything at this stage, but come Monday I should have almost everything to set-up and test the temp and humidity for a few days before I get something in there.

they had already posted I just missed it.

 

[Fckit712]

I would remove all the shelves apart from were the bottom shelf is. Take the central devider out. Were the bottom shelf is just have one there but going straight across. This should give you a decent sized flowering space the top section and a small seedling clone section at the bottom. Put in a kind of kick board about 2-3inch high right at the bottom which will stop dust and any thing else blowing straight in of the floor or kicking up when some is walking near it whenthe door is open. With your venting you should have enough space to hang your light and hang your filter and fan near the top. You have a hole on the back board near the top so around that area would be were your fan would blow out. You should have enough space to position your light near the top centre hanging down a little bit with your filter hanging along side it, should cool your light a bit too. Then your bottom shelf you will have to cut a couple slots in but be mind full as your plants will sit on the upper side of that bottom shelf (work out if you want your plants and pots sitting in a tray or individual saucers)and also dont dont do one right above the intake baffle . I would make a couple of slots near the edges. Then place your intake baffle on the back panel right towards the bottom. What this should do is as air is being sucked out via the fan near the top of the top chamber it will force air to come through your intake baffle near the bottom, go through the bottom chamber and up through the shelf into the top chamber. You might have to build some small light traps for the slots of the bottom shelf that you stick to the top of the bottom shelf. This should then stop any light leaking from one chamber to the next when one mightbe on its dark cycle. One more thing that will make all the air system more effective and work better as when shut I don't know if when the door is shut it will make each chamber air tight. So if you replace the back panel with a solid back, you can use the thiner removed one in to individual chamber doors that with some draft excluders positioned right on the inside edging and on the inside of these doors edging and some strategicly placed magnetic latches can make it farely air tight. With the normal wardrobe doors shutting over them too there should be enough pressure then to make it all quite tight. If you need to keep the floppy pannel one of my friends used to use a good method. He would have thin lengths running along the edge of his camber all the way around, top sides and bottom. They would sit about 2cm back from the very edge. Then he built a frame and just stuck thick plastik to the front of it and stapled on the back side. This frame he then just put a couple of screws in the top, two in the bottom strip and one on each side. He then screwed this as a front panel tho the chamber with the screws going into the lengths/battons he had already attached to the chamber that ran around the inside edge sitting back those 2cm. With the plastic on the front of the fram and stappled over the edges tho the inside of the frame, when scewing it down abit the plastic acted like a draught excluder seal and made it more air tight. Also making sure once screwed down the frame sat a mil or two inside the chamber so the wardrobe main door could shut. So you would one ov these panels on the top chamber and one on the bottom. Obviously be aware though with this method your going to have to undo 4-6 screws to get to a chamber and your plants. But it will make it secure and effect. Or another way is putting ruber strips on the inside of the normal wardrobe doors that wen the the doors are shut make the chambers air tight best as you can. You see the more airtigh you can make each individual chamber the more better the air will be forced through the bottom chamber and out through the top chamber. With the bottom chamber you could probably light that with a single t5 led tube or a couple of cfl bulbs. Hope that helps.

Hell yeah it does! Thank you for taking the time to explain your thoughts on it. I'm gonna follow the direction you gave me, and when I get stumped on something, hit you back up. This sites been awesome. I'm also on THCFarmer, but over 100000 people and I still rarely get any help. I know how to read, but hearing from experience helps me to get shit. I greatly appreciate it.
Cheers

 

[Fckit712]

I would remove all the shelves apart from were the bottom shelf is. Take the central devider out. Were the bottom shelf is just have one there but going straight across. This should give you a decent sized flowering space the top section and a small seedling clone section at the bottom. Put in a kind of kick board about 2-3inch high right at the bottom which will stop dust and any thing else blowing straight in of the floor or kicking up when some is walking near it whenthe door is open. With your venting you should have enough space to hang your light and hang your filter and fan near the top. You have a hole on the back board near the top so around that area would be were your fan would blow out. You should have enough space to position your light near the top centre hanging down a little bit with your filter hanging along side it, should cool your light a bit too. Then your bottom shelf you will have to cut a couple slots in but be mind full as your plants will sit on the upper side of that bottom shelf (work out if you want your plants and pots sitting in a tray or individual saucers)and also dont dont do one right above the intake baffle . I would make a couple of slots near the edges. Then place your intake baffle on the back panel right towards the bottom. What this should do is as air is being sucked out via the fan near the top of the top chamber it will force air to come through your intake baffle near the bottom, go through the bottom chamber and up through the shelf into the top chamber. You might have to build some small light traps for the slots of the bottom shelf that you stick to the top of the bottom shelf. This should then stop any light leaking from one chamber to the next when one mightbe on its dark cycle. One more thing that will make all the air system more effective and work better as when shut I don't know if when the door is shut it will make each chamber air tight. So if you replace the back panel with a solid back, you can use the thiner removed one in to individual chamber doors that with some draft excluders positioned right on the inside edging and on the inside of these doors edging and some strategicly placed magnetic latches can make it farely air tight. With the normal wardrobe doors shutting over them too there should be enough pressure then to make it all quite tight. If you need to keep the floppy pannel one of my friends used to use a good method. He would have thin lengths running along the edge of his camber all the way around, top sides and bottom. They would sit about 2cm back from the very edge. Then he built a frame and just stuck thick plastik to the front of it and stapled on the back side. This frame he then just put a couple of screws in the top, two in the bottom strip and one on each side. He then screwed this as a front panel tho the chamber with the screws going into the lengths/battons he had already attached to the chamber that ran around the inside edge sitting back those 2cm. With the plastic on the front of the fram and stappled over the edges tho the inside of the frame, when scewing it down abit the plastic acted like a draught excluder seal and made it more air tight. Also making sure once screwed down the frame sat a mil or two inside the chamber so the wardrobe main door could shut. So you would one ov these panels on the top chamber and one on the bottom. Obviously be aware though with this method your going to have to undo 4-6 screws to get to a chamber and your plants. But it will make it secure and effect. Or another way is putting ruber strips on the inside of the normal wardrobe doors that wen the the doors are shut make the chambers air tight best as you can. You see the more airtigh you can make each individual chamber the more better the air will be forced through the bottom chamber and out through the top chamber. With the bottom chamber you could probably light that with a single t5 led tube or a couple of cfl bulbs. Hope that helps.

Oh yeah...... What about clip fan locations? I was gonna affix one high in the cabinet, and one low.

 

[Tracker]

Oh yeah...... What about clip fan locations? I was gonna affix one high in the cabinet, and one low.

If you can make a way to adjust their height would be good. Don't have them directly blasting on the same part of the plant the whole time. Oscillating is best, or something that's indirectly stirring up the air.

 

[Fckit712]

Getting there......... Exhaust is in, and im going to put the light hooks on the top, instead of sides; can't get it to level out. Had to remove the bottom shelves, so I'll have to figure something out for seedlings. Keep it moving...........

 

[Tracker]

Getting there......... Exhaust is in, and im going to put the light hooks on the top, instead of sides; can't get it to level out. Had to remove the bottom shelves, so I'll have to figure something out for seedlings. Keep it moving...........

Nice!

 

[Reznfingeez]

Just curious why you wouldn’t have just bought a 4x4 tent? Looks like you have plenty of room there not only that is they are quite inexpensive and are setup with the proper holes and whatnot for ventilation

 

[Fckit712]

Just curious why you wouldn’t have just bought a 4x4 tent? Looks like you have plenty of room there not only that is they are quite inexpensive and are setup with the proper holes and whatnot for ventilation

Money has been tight, and I was gifted everything, except the Intake/exhaust system. Also, have to buy a fan as well. But keeping my budget as low as possible and throwing caution to the wind.

 

[Fckit712]

Ok.......heres what I'm gonna run. Still need to put in some drainage holes, cut hole for wires, and add mylar to the doors. Buy other than that im gonna start her up tomorrow im thinking and test the temp and humidity for a few days. Any thoughts, advice, stuff I forgot about, etc?
Cheers

 

[Ras Mountain]

What do you mean when you say put in drainage holes? You're going to let the water leak through the floor? What about collection?

Definitely cut one more small intake hole on the side wall near the bottom, that's important. I think I see just one by that clip fan. It's a good start. You're almost there!