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Transplanting into Coco

Discussion in 'Indoor Growing' started by FerretWrangler, Nov 9, 2017.

  1. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    I'm done with peat moss until I am a more accomplished grower. I know you're supposed to transplant into the same medium but I am willing to take the risk. I picked this up today and it's what I will be using for the time being.
    20171109_165604.jpg

    When I get some bud and can get a buzz going tonight I will most likely transplant. I got 40 1 gallon pots today.
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2017
  2. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    There are as many ways to grow as there are growers! If you find coco easier and it works for you then why not give it a go :) You did well to avoid buying the cheap coco bricks they aren't great. The canna stuff has lots of great reviews and people are getting some excellent results!
    Nice score on the mykos, definitely worth while. Good luck with the transplanting :sun:
     
  3. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    Thanks @Sunshine! I'm gonna use hydroton in place of perlite, any thought?
     
  4. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    I'd put an inch or so of hydroton at the bottom of each container then your coco ;)
    In theory coco holds enough air to make perlite unnecessary but it may be safer to add some to the coco mix :)
     
  5. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    I just did the math and I've got enough room in the closet for around 22-26 pots. I suppose I could cull the weak but that's not optimal, since there aren't that many that are weak. On top of that I doubt the marshydro 300 will light the entire closet which is 64 inches by 25. (162.56x60.96 cm) So my question is, will they be ready for the big light? i could uppot them in waves, so that the first wave I pot can overcome any transplant shock and be moved under the 600w hps, so as to maximize my space. I'm looking at 33 I want to keep.
     
  6. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    Back in my hps days I grew straight from seed under 400 and 600s so I don't see why not as long as your temps are within range and you have a fan on them ;)
    But I do like your suggestion of repotting in waves, sounds like a solid plan to me my friend :)
     
  7. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    Awesome! Thanks once again @Sunshine I'm gonna pot a few of the strongest soon, maybe not tonight since I'm just starting to get into the coco info under growfaq' s I also still have mites in the big room but hopefully I can eradicate them soon, i guess I have to wait to move them anyways. So, what temp is optimal? It's hard to keep it stable in there but I could move a heater in.
     
  8. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    My pleasure @FerretWrangler :) Optimal temps are 25c - 28c / 77f - 83f, with coco you don't want them getting cold especially as the medium stays wetter. Wet and warm is good, wet and cold will cause problems. If you can get a heater in there to stop the min temp dropping too low that would be a great idea :idea:
     
  9. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    I will look into it soon! Should coco coir be very loose packed? That's the one thing I didn't see definitively on the faq.
     
  10. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    Yes don't pack it down, keep it nice and loose and airy just bang the bottom of the pot to help settle it, the watering/s will settle it down then you can top up as required :)
     
  11. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    :rolleyes:
    20171110_071627.jpg 20171110_071749.jpg
    The roots are way more established than I would have expected and it was hell getting all the peat and perlite off the roots. There was a bit of damage but it didn't seem like too much. I'd love tips in this department. Maybe I should just wash the next one in a bucket of water? Anyways, I culled a few and the first one is in the coco :)
    20171110_073122.jpg
     
  12. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    You don't have to remove the soil from the roots, you could just leave it on there.
    If you feel you want to remove the existing soil it's best to let the cups get very dry then the mix will fall from the roots much easier and weigh less causing less tearing/damage as it comes away ;)
    The plant looks very happy in its new home btw, nice and healthy too :)
     
  13. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    Hopefully it's a girl, but either way it does look super happy. I'll pull the peat off dry next time :) how early can I start training? I might use the old scrog but we will see because I might could get a similar result from vigilant training and the scrog is kinda tall. What shape would be best to train for? With the slh I just bent her over and she had potential, but i was wondering if there was a better shape? Also, how many times should I top? I've read to start topping at 5-6 nodes.
     
  14. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    One of them already has cool colors :cool:
    20171111_063245.jpg
     
  15. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    The screen would be good but not ideal if you've got potential males in there as you'd have to unpick them.
    I like to pull mine over rather than topping but either way what you ideally want to achieve is an even canopy with all shoots at around the same level to maximise the efficiency of your light
     
  16. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    If it were me I'd be tempted to tilt pots and move them around to ensure even lighting and get a quick crop under your belt rather than training.
    You could then reveg the best girls and scrog or train the revegged girls achieving 2 harvests within the next 6 months :)
    The longer you veg for the greater potential there is for them to come off the boil.
     
  17. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    I've been moving them around to even out the light pretty often, if I tilt the pots won't they just grow up?Then I suppose you're supposed to tilt the other way, but they'll just shoot up straight again right? I like the idea of revegging the best girls and scrogging them :D

    I was wondering if discoloration of the first leaves (not the cotyledons) is normal? None are dead yet but some are yellowing a little or they have a bronze tint.
     
  18. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    Tilting opens up the undergrowth/side shoots to light where they would have otherwise have been shaded, encouraging them to grow into tops ;)
    Discoloration means there an issue. Ideally leaves should be shiny and green.
    What have they been given so far?
     
    FerretWrangler likes this.
  19. FerretWrangler

    FerretWrangler Every day I'm Wrangling

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    They all got a shot of Gaia mania from my nectar for the gods collection at like 60 ppm a week ago and they loved it. Yesterday I did move the heater in there and it might have gotten too warm. Or maybe the heater took the humidity down? I think they do that. Last night I gave the strongest ones and the ones with dying cotyledons a micro dose of the early veg mixture at around 150 ppm.
     
  20. Sunshine

    Sunshine Organic Fanatic

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    Is there good drainage in the cups? You need lots of drainage holes to ensure they aren't sitting in puddles which will cause issues.
    Really there should be absolutely no need to feed the young plants for their duration in the cups, if there are issues at this stage start with troubleshooting the basics like temps/drainage etc Adding fertilisers when it isn't necessary will cause problems rather than solve them.
    The nute website has some guidelines (below), amounts are per us gallon. Generally all nutrient companies (massively) overstate the amount needed so start with 1/4 or 1/5 of what they suggest then adjust accordingly. When they say 5ml I'd be reading 1ml.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    The Spartan Regimen
    “We named this regimen after the Spartans because they believed in keeping it simple, and we believe there is great power in simplicity. With just these four nutrients many gardeners have had great success creating healthful and abundant gardens, and we believe you can too.”

    [​IMG]
    Printable Spartan Regimen


    The Greek Regimen
    “We named this regimen after the Greeks because they valued learning and finding elegant solutions. These are values that are close to our heart. We believe in using what is needed and no more. We prefer to tread lightly and live sustainably. If you share these values, we think you will find that the Greek regimen sorts well with your values.”

    [​IMG]
    Printable Greek Regimen


    The Roman Regimen
    “Romans don’t believe in half measures and that is why we named the Roman Regimen after them. The Roman Regimen gives you plentiful tools to deliver a bountiful harvest and to give you precise control of the look, taste, aroma and feel of your plants and their fruit. Go forth and conquer!”

    [​IMG]
    Printable Roman Regimen
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017